22-08-2012, 01:34 PM
Leather industry
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OVERVIEW OF INDUSTRY
Leather industry, including leather products, is the second largest export earning sector after
textiles. Currently, this sector is contributing around $800 million a year but has the potential
to multiply volume of exports with the improvement of quality and diversification in
different range of products, specially garments and footwear.
Basically, it is a job-oriented sector providing employment to a very large segment of the
society besides earning foreign exchange for the country.
The leather finishing and made ups industries represent an important sector in Pakistan,
contributing almost more than half a billion US dollars in foreign exchange earnings to the
national exchequer. The leather industry consists of six sub-sectors namely, Tanning,
Leather. Footwear, Leather Garments, Leather Gloves, Leather Shoe Uppers, and Leather
Goods. The Tanning industry plays a vital role in the progress of these sub-sectors by
providing the basic material i.e. leather. Today, Pakistanis among the leading countries in the
production of Leather Garments and Gloves. The leather and leather made-ups industry plays
a significant role in the economy of Pakistan and its share in GDP is 4%. Ten years ago, it
was the fifth most important export industry in the manufacturing sector, and now it is the
second.
HISTORY
The history of leather industry in Pakistan is as old as the country itself. At the time of
independence there were only a few tanneries producing sole leather and that too at a very
small scale. However, since then this industry has been flourishing and has never looked
back. During 1950s, some well-equipped tanneries were set up at Karachi and Lahore, while
during 60s and 70s more units were established at Hyderabad Kasur, Sialkot, Multan,
Sahiwal and Gujranwala. Starting with the production of picked and vegetable tanned hides
and skins, the tanneries, today, are producing not only wet blue and crust, but also fully
finished leather.
In the early days of independence some tanneries were established in Karachi. In 1950's
some were established in Lahore and adjoining areas.
The entire production of hides and skins were being exported in a raw form. Thereafter the
local tanning industry making at first semi-finished leather made rapid progress due to
favorable raw material situation, cheap labor and the existence of growing demand and
foreign market.
LOCATIONS IN PAKISTAN
In Pakistan there are more than 2500 tanneries (registered& Un registered) and footwear
manufacturing units running in Pakistan. Over the years, the number of registered
tanneries in the country has increased from 529 in 1999 to 600 in 2003 and to 725 at
present. Located in Karachi, Hyderabad, Lahore, Multan, Kasur, Faisalabad, Gujranwala,
Sialkot, Sahiwal, Sheikhupura and Peshawar, the increase in the number of tanneries
can be attributed to increase in demand of tanned leather in the world markets till the
fiscal year 2007-08.
PRODUCTION PROCESS
There are a number of processes whereby the skin of an animal can be formed into a supple,
strong material commonly called leather.
1. Vegetable-tanned leather is tanned using tannin (hence the name "tanning") and other
ingredients found in vegetable matter, tree bark, and other such sources. It is supple and
brown in color, with the exact shade depending on the mix of chemicals and the color of the
skin. Vegetable-tanned leather is not stable in water; it tends to discolor, and if left to soak
and then dry it will shrink and become less supple and harder. In hot water, it will shrink
drastically and partly gelatinise, becoming rigid and eventually brittle. Boiled leather is an
example of this where the leather has been hardened by being immersed in hot water, or in
boiled wax or similar substances. Historically, it was occasionally used as armour after
hardening, and it has also been used for book binding. This is the only form of leather
suitable for use in leather carving or stamping.
2. Chrome-tanned leather, invented in 1858, is tanned using chromium sulfate and other
salts of chromium. It is more supple and pliable than vegetable-tanned leather, and does not
discolor or lose shape as drastically in water as vegetable-tanned. Also known as wet-blue
for its color derived from the chromium. More esoteric colors are possible using chrome
tanning.